Latest comments

  • It's alive!
    Lee
    Hi, any chance of you sharing your config code for this project.

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  • It's alive!
    Lee
    Hi Danny, great piece on converting an Overlord to use an MKS Sbase. I'm replacing my Overlord MB ...

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    Alison
    Sweet blog! I found it while surfing around on Yahoo News. Do you have any tips on how to get listed ...

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  • Getting back into it
    online word Counter
    Everything is very open with a very cleaar description of the challenges. It waas really informative.

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    BHW
    I blog often and I really thank you for your information. This article has truly peaked my interest.

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Danny's Corner

Piecing together the other printer

The Shapeoko wiring is bringing me down. I can't seem to make up my mind on how to arrange the parts. It doesn't help that I need to reassemble my Shapeoko with the longer maker slide I purchased. So, figured I'd start fixing and upgrading one of my 3d printers to let my brain digest the problem. Above is close to my final design for my MKS Sbase panel. But, I'm getting ahead of myself.

One of the things that my 3d printer sorely needs is more CPU horsepower. To that end, here's my MKS Sbase. It's a smoothieware running microcontroller. A fairly compact one at that. The mount holes don't match however. To make it work I figured I could secure it at three points, the back panel and the two rear most points. 

Making the rear points work was easy. A pair of offset standoffs were drawn up and printed out.

The rear panel however, has gone through several revisions. The first version had a misaligned USB jack cutout.

Once I centered that, I figured I should add a way to secure the panel to the printer. Two small holes were added so bolts could lock the panel in place.

But then I got to thinking, hmmm how do I reuse the power supply the printer came with? A lot of searching on Mouser, and I located the power socket. A Kycon KPJX-PM-4S. But of course I also needed a switch to turn off the power. So, I also ordered a nice DC power switch. Too bad I didn't model up the switch until after I ordered it! The switch I ordered is awesome, but simply way too big.

Some more searching and a rethink on how to turn on/off the power, and a new switch was sourced. It's a tiny thing at 15mm x 10mm, but it'll work great to trigger a relay. Once the parts from Mouser arrive, I'll need to figure out how to wire up a 5v signal wire to control the isolation relay I've got.

While I'm waiting, I've been picking up a new skill. Part of the work to get the new microcontroller working is crimping. Lots of crimping. I managed to ruin quite a few test crimps no matter how gentle I was with the crimper and wire stripper I had on hand.

After an Amazon prime order for the right tools, the crimps come out perfectly on the first attempt! That there is a JST-XH pin. An incredibly tiny little thing. But the wire crimp and the strain relief crimp portions came out great.

Lots more to do though. Lots of wiring and quite a bit of software configuration. Feels good to be making progress though.